• Fake GBA carts

    I’m selling all my Game Boy Advance carts. While taking pictures I noticed two cartridges looking a little off. The logos on both Metroid Fusion (AGB-AMTP-EUR) and Final Fantasy VI Advance (AGB-BZ6P-EUR) seemed fuzzy.

    A picture of Metroid Fusion for GBA showing that the logo on the cart is fuzzy A close-up picture of Metroid Fusion for GBA showing that the logo on the cart is fuzzy A close-up picture of Final Fantasy VI for GBA showing that the logo on the cart is fuzzy

    That’s not a good sign and I decided to open them up and take a look at the circuit boards.

    Here’s a picture of an authentic, Nintendo manufactured circuit board for Golden Sun (AGB-AGSP-EUR). It looks neat, tidy and well put together.

    A close-up picture of the circuit board of Golden Sun for GBA showing that it's authentic

    The contrast with the boards below is striking.

    A close-up picture of the circuit board of Metroid Fusion for GBA showing that it's fake

    This is the inside of the Metroid Fusion cart. The board is dirty, the fonts and logos are incorrect, there’s even a label on one of the chips (it says something about a ‘North Star’).

    A close-up picture of the circuit board of Final Fantasy VI Advance for GBA showing that it's fake

    The Final Fantasy VI Advance cart is less dramatic, but a reproduction nonetheless. The Nintendo logo looks awful.

    I haven’t decided what I’ll do with these. Either I’ll throw them out, or I’ll drop them off at the local thrift store. Trashing them means somebody else won’t be able to buy (or sell) them anymore.

  • Distracted by time

    It’s widely accepted that there exists a state of mind that allows you to perform exceptionally. Most people call it ‘the zone’ or ‘flow’. Achieving it helps you to get things done almost effortlessly. It’s fragile though; a single distraction can break it.

    The clock is one of those distractions for me:

    • 10.00 – Only 10 am?? It feels like I’ve been doing nothing for ages.
    • 11.30 – Better not start something new because it’ll be lunch time soon.
    • 14.00 - Sheesh this day is never going to end…
    • 16.00 – It’s already 4 pm?? I did nothing today and it’s too late to start now.

    This gets worse when I have appointments throughout the day. The example is a bit extreme, but you catch my drift.

    Hiding time

    As an experiment, I removed every time indicator from my screen six months ago. The effects are noticeable: I can just sit, work and not care about how the day is progressing. This lack of attachment in turn makes it easier to lose myself in what I’m doing, thus comfortably achieving more.

    There are downsides: it also stops me from getting up and do basic things like drink water or getting some fresh air. I work from home and if I’m not careful I skip lunch and scramble to make something for diner because I forgot to buy groceries.


    Notifications help with this. My calendar and reminders pop up every now and then so I don’t forget anything important. I could start wearing my Apple Watch again to remind me to get up, set additional reminders to help me take proper care of myself and do mundane tasks during the day.

    That’s a bit much, I think. It would make me feel like a robot.


    I’m working on a more natural way of getting the most out of my day: it’s an app called Timeless. At its core it gives me a generic sense of what part of the day I’m in: morning, lunch time, noon etc.

    Instead of breaking concentration or induce stress it lets me continue working when I’m still in the time range I’m expecting to get stuff done. Then, in a glance, it lets me know that I’ve entered a new part of the day. If it’s between 12pm and 2pm I should probably get lunch.

    There’s no notification to ‘get lunch now’, just a hint that when I’m ready I should probably go grab something to eat.

    Even when combined with more urgent interruptions, like water breaks, it allows me to comfortably get back to work. I don’t feel any pressure or hesitance because of how much time I have left in the day.

    Beta sign-up

    I’m getting ready to let others give this a go as well. If you’d like to be invited to try the beta, subscribe to the mailing list. Thanks!

  • My Office Setup

    I changed my workspace at home a few weeks ago. Instead of a dedicated room, I now have a closet to work in.

    That’s right: I fit my entire office inside of a cabinet. This includes a monitor, desktop computer, laptop, three game consoles with peripherals and a bunch of binders.

    A side-by-side picture of my office inside of a cabinet, doors closed on the left, open on the right

    It made me think about where I work on my apps. Currently there are three major workplaces that I alternate between: my closet, a desk at Blendle and random Croissant affiliated coworking places1

    Read the rest of this post over at For more regular updates and personal notes, consider following me there.

    1. Full disclosure: Contains an affiliate link for Croissant. Using it is much appreciated. 

  • My current take on the NSStatusBar icon size

    As far as I know, there’s still no official Apple documentation on the NSStatusBar icon size. There are a few resources and discussions that mostly seem to agree on a few things:

    • The width is up to you.
    • The icon’s max height is 22 pixels.
    • If the icon is smaller than 22 pixels, it will be vertically centered.

    The choice is between setting your image’s canvas at 22px and placing the icon where you want it (leaving transparent space at the edges) or using the actual size of the icon.

    I tried both as you can see in the image below. Focus on the two icons in the center that represent a radar. Do you have a preference?

    A screenshot of the menu bar with two custom icons set next to each other

    The one on the left is an image 22px high with the 16x16px icon centered inside. The right one is just the square icon. They appear very similar and are shown at the exact same size.

    It’s very hard to see, but sitting in my menu bar I prefer the one on the right (just the 16x16px icon) centered by the operating system. It seems a little sharper to me. No hard evidence though. It could be the odd rotation of the left icon.

    As for the width, the left one has 1px of padding left and right. The right one has no padding at all. Sitting next to the WiFi indicator, it might not be a bad idea to give it some more breathing room.

    As the icon is square, I can just use a square NSStatusItem length. This sets the status item width to be equal to the height of the menu bar, thus 22 pixels.

    let statusItem = NSStatusBar.system.statusItem(withLength: NSStatusItem.squareLength)

    And there we go. If the icon wasn’t square or would look better with its width set manually, I could use .variableLength like I did in the previous screenshot and adjust the width in the image.

    A screenshot of the menu bar with the custom icon looking like it should

  • A proper adapter removes noise from your (PicoPSU powered) console

    I fitted my Japenese SEGA Saturn and Dreamcast with a PicoPSU. The relatively simple operation replaces the 110V power supply with a much more flexible output that will take any third-party 12V 5A power supply with a 5.5mm/2.5mm barrel connector.

    A front-facing photo of a PicoPSU, courtesy of

    The alternatives are:

    • A step-down converter.
    • A PAL power supply in an NTSC console.

    I’ve used both options and they’re not ideal. The step-down converter is noisey and it always bothered me that I could just stick a 220V wire into my 110V console if I wasn’t careful. Frying it in the process.

    Replacing the 110V power supply with a 220V board from a PAL console is much more convenient. The downside here is price though; you need a donor console that will sit idle, powerless so to speak…

    The PicoPSU is the ideal solution then. It really can be, but it the outcome depends on the third-party power supply.

    After I installed the PicoPSU in the Saturn, I was quite impressed with the result. It worked fine. The Dreamcast wasn’t such a success. The screen was filled with a very odd type of noise: square blocks all over the screen. Nothing I tried could remedy it. Closer inspection of the Saturn showed the same effect, but much less pronounced.

    It wasn’t until I read on a forum that the power supply could have something to do with the interference, that I tried a different power supply. The adapter from my external Seagate hard drive had about the correct specifications. When I tried it with the Dreamcast, I was stunned. The picture was crystal clear. No disturbances anywhere.

    The stories are true then: you need good quality power supply, or you won’t get the most out of your PicoPSU.

    I got two ‘LEICKE Power Supply Charger 60W 12V 5A 5.5 * 2.5 mm’ and they’re perfect. You can get the LEICKE power supplies here.

    Leicke 60W 12V 5A product photo

    SEGA Mega Drive

    The 16-bit console is a different story, sort of. There’s no need to replace the internal power supply, but there’s also an external power brick. My Japanese Mega Drive has an annoying humm when the screen is mostly dark. I blamed the SCART cable first, but even the cable I got from has the issue.

    Could the power supply I’m using be at fault here as well? Well, I think it can.

    The one I’m using now outputs 1 ampere, which is just shy of the required 1.3 ampere. From what I’m seeing online this could result in a buzzing noise while playing.

    Getting a replacement 9V 1.3A ‘center negative’ adapter with a 5.5mm/2.1mm barrel isn’t as easy as getting a 12V 5A brick though, if you discard the modular variety. After some browsing around I discovered that many guitar effect pedals use the same type power supply. The Rockpower 50 NT seems to fit the bill perfectly.

    I forgot to check Retro Game Supply. They sell a very nice Mega Drive/Genesis power supply for even less than the one I found earlier.

    I’ll let you know if it resolves the buzzing when it arrives. The buzzing has disappeared with the new power adapter. 🎉